Today, I exposed the belt I learned to make. It is said that this is the easiest kind of exercise, because the husband has been clamoring that there is no belt, so let's practice making a belt first. Today, I have four belts made for a few friends. They are of different sizes and different colors. Although there is room for improvement, it is my hard work and my own child. No matter how ugly you are, Ha ha. The tools used are also the simplest, not even leather crafter beginner suit!
1. Material: The belt strips bought online are made of Argentine vegetable tanned leather, with a width of 3.4cm, 2.9cm and 2.4cm, and the thickness is basically 3.5mm; the other one is made of Argentine vegetable tanned leather that I used to make bags. The rest of the tanned leather has a thickness of 2mm and a width of 2cm. Only this one was dyed by myself. The reason for choosing vegetable tanned leather is that it has thick skin and is durable as a belt. Of course, there are Italian vegetable tanned leather, etc. Also because vegetable tanned leather can be dyed without being dyed, it is suitable for raising cattle. As time goes by, the color will become darker and darker. , More and more beautiful, some belts will develop a honey color. For the width of the belt, it is generally recommended that men choose 3.4cm wide and above, and women choose 2.4cm below. In fact, I really want to make myself a 1.0cm belt with a beautiful summer skirt. I must make one when I have time and dye it. Beautiful rose red, haha.
The same is the belt head bought online, the simplest kind of Japanese-style buckle, solid copper, not light weight, good texture, the price is basically below 30 yuan, of course, if you are a local tyrant, you can also buy hundreds of Beautiful buckle. I have read an article saying that high-quality belts should not have any trademarks, and the simplest is the simplest one. The belt with the corresponding width corresponds to the belt buckle with the corresponding inner diameter. The belt nails are also made of pure copper, which looks very shiny, cheap, and a few cents. When buying nails, pay attention to the height of the screws. If they are too short, they will not fit, and if they are too long, they will be loose. My screws are basically 6/7mm.
There is also the belt loop, the little piece of leather that connects the belt and the buckle. These accessories are usually sold at the place where you sell belt strips. If you have extra leather on hand, it is easy to make it yourself. I will save trouble. I will buy it. After I buy it, I will have the screw holes for installation.
The belt was coated with croissant, and I bought it at the store where I bought the belt strips. That's basically it. By the way, there are bed surface treatment agents (I use CMC powder) and edge oil, and I use water-based edge oil. The side oil is actually quite difficult to apply. I tried that kind of thick side oil, but I didn’t know how to apply it and it was not smooth at all. Later, I didn’t dare to try it. ), so I bought the water-based edge oil. A seller on a certain treasure researched the edge oil himself. It is said that the effect is better than the imported one. The characteristic of water-based edge oil is that anyone can control it. In fact, because the belt is thick and hard, the edge oil is best applied. Of course, if it is not handled properly, it will be very unsightly.
2. Tools: Actually not many tools are needed, cotton balls; the kind of frosting strips used to sharpen nails, one side is coarse sand and the other side is fine sand, many girls are using it, if you buy it, it only costs 1 yuan; wooden edging Stick; hammer; hole punch; slotted screwdriver.
3. The specific operation steps are as follows:
1) Coloring: Only yellow of these belts are dyed by me. The effect is average. The alcohol dye is used. I won’t say more about it here. I will discuss the two dyed Cambridge bags when I have the opportunity to expose them. . The other three are uncolored, and are vegetable tanned leather in primary colors.
2) Oiling: The cotton ball is directly coated with horn oil on the front of the belt. Remember, do not apply oil on the back, otherwise it will not dry. Apply a shallow layer, and then expose it to the sun for a long time to allow the skin oil to absorb more fully. Then apply and dry, until you are satisfied with the color. This process is very torturous because it takes more time. The longer the wearing time, the darker the color will be. If you don’t have croissant oil, let me tell you a little secret. You can substitute olive oil or corn oil for oiling at home. I think the effect is pretty good, haha, and don’t worry about being expensive. Painted.
3) Anti-dyeing: I did not do this step because I did not buy an anti-dyeing solution in time. Facts have proved that the belt without the anti-dye solution is not resistant to dirt! It is recommended to buy anti-dyeing lotion to keep the appearance of the belt in the later stage. (Now my husband’s belt is dirty. I ask me what to do every day. I don’t know how to deal with it. Who knows the solution, please advise.)
4) Back-side treatment: CMC powder is rinsed with appropriate amount of hot water, dispersed, and left for a few hours to let it melt fully. It will be better if it is left for a longer time. I left it overnight and it became jelly-like. However, because this thing will evaporate slowly after it is adjusted, if it will not be used for several days later, it is recommended to install it with a lid to avoid evaporating. Adjust the jelly-like shape, and then apply it evenly on the back of the belt, and use a thick glass plate to scrape it smoothly in one direction. Instead of buying a thick glass plate, I used a thick canned glass bottle instead, which is also very easy to use. Hehe, make full use of the tools on hand.
5) Oil on the top of the edging: This step is very important and time-consuming. First, use a scrubbing stick to dry and polish twice. The first coarse sand and then the fine sand will grind out a lot of dander. It is recommended to wear a mask and hat, and wear an apron to avoid inhaling dust until the dander is worn off and it feels smoother to the touch. Then use a cotton ball soaked in water to wipe the leather edge, not too wet, just moisten it through, use a wooden edging stick, then you will see the polished luster; then use a cotton swab to adjust it Carefully apply the CMC on the leather side (don’t apply it to the leather surface), wait for the cmc to dry slightly, and grind it again with a wooden edging stick. At this time, you will see that the leather side is very smooth; finally the cotton swab is dipped in the water-based leather. Just apply an even layer of side oil. If you want the ball to be taller, you can wait for the edging oil to dry, and lightly sand it with sandpaper (800 mesh), and then apply a layer of water-based edging oil. If you are still not satisfied, you can apply another layer of edging oil. I didn't apply edging oil on the edges of this picture. Instead, I applied a layer of edging wax and polished after cmc grinding. The effect was also good.
The oil on the edging is really painful and cumbersome, over and over again, but after the edging is done, it will feel worthwhile, the edges are really beautiful!
6) Assembly: Try the position of the belt buckle, punch the hole with the puncher, and then combine the belt strip, belt buckle, screws, connecting leather, and belt loop with a screwdriver. The combination is a bit laborious, because I am a girl, not so hard? Maybe, but I still took it down.
7) Punch belt holes at a fixed length: Measure from the belt head, punch holes at the most suitable waist circumference, and then punch two holes in front and back of this hole, one hole every 3-4cm. When punching holes, put a punching board underneath, if not, put a few more layers of newspaper!
8) The end of the belt: it can be cut into an oval (women's) or trapezoid (men's), or any shape you like, you can cut it with a utility knife, of course, you must draw it first.